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Montemerano ❤️ the 'village of love'
- Category Art History and Culture
Agriturismo - Where to stay overnight
Montemerano lies along the scenic road that links Manciano with the famous hot springs of Saturnia. Perched on a hill in the Maremma countryside and surrounded by centuries‑old olive groves, the village is enclosed by walls that, seen from above, trace the shape of a heart – a fitting emblem for what many call “the village of love”. Cobbled lanes, stone arches draped with flowers and sudden views across the valley leave an indelible mark on every visitor.
The quarter known as the Castello is the oldest nucleus: a labyrinth of tower‑houses and little palaces that once formed the medieval stronghold. Here stand the austere Palazzo del Podestà (14th c.) and the solid Palazzo Aldobrandeschi, while at the centre lies the intimate Piazza del Castello, an irregular quadrangle where knights practised tournaments. The grey stone façades bloom with balconies and loggias overflowing with geraniums, bougainvillea and climbing roses – a living postcard.
Below the second ring of walls rises the Church of Saint George, a jewel of Romanesque‑Gothic art built by the Sienese in the 12th century and enlarged later on. The single‑aisled interior preserves 14th‑century frescoes, a precious triptych by Sano di Pietro and the famous panel of the Madonna della Gattaiola (15th c.). According to tradition, the tiny square hole at the base of the painting – a “cat‑flap” (gattaiola) – allowed cats to pass from the sacristy to the pantry and keep mice away from stored food.
Montemerano also boasts vibrant traditions: in spring the Feast of Saint George fills the village with pageants, costumed parades and a blessing of horses, while summer brings the Melos Etruria Festival of classical and jazz concerts on the dramatic Piazza del Castello. Nature lovers can follow the Anello dei Colli – a loop trail through olive groves and wheat fields with sweeping views over the Maremma to Monte Amiata – or soak in the sulphurous waters of the Cascate del Mulino, only ten minutes away by car.
